I like to think of myself as naturally inquisitive. At social functions, it isn’t unlikely to see me holding forth about a number of topics; posing questions to dig deeper and engage. I look at each individual as a source of a story. A piece of a larger puzzle that will help me make sense of the world.
But my interest in unearthing stories generally covers two categories: food and people. I prefer to read tales of untapped neighborhoods, hidden enclaves and fabled streets from others. Enter, Adam Roberts, Englishman and longtime resident in Paris, my go-to guy for underexplored Paris.
Adam is dedicated to uncovering the city’s most overlooked corners and has shared his findings with readers on his aptly-named blog Invisible Paris since 2008. The places that attract him are what he considers “ordinary” – the spots on the fringes you aren’t likely to find expatiated upon by guide book writers or major travel sites but are, in fact, just as real and historically symbolic as the attractions so vivid in our minds when we think of Paris.
The blog was a natural extension of the exploring and investigating he was already enjoying coupled with his desire to dive into storytelling. Now, he’s aiming to reach beyond the blog and publish an online magazine where he can offer for more thorough vignettes for readers. Adam is so knowledgeable about Paris and its surroundings so I’m thrilled to have him in this series!
Describe what you love about France in three words.
The two most important words – about living anywhere – for me are home and adventure. Paris, probably more so than France, most definitely feels like my home now, especially since my children were born in the city. Life here though also remains a daily adventure as it’s impossible to cut off your roots, and I was most definitely conditioned as an Englishman. It is this duality – being at once at home and an outsider – that is perhaps my favourite part of living in France. For a third word I would add bread, because I think a freshly-cooked baguette is the one thing I would really miss about France if I left!
Biggest misconception about the French?
I guess I would have to begin with my own misconception. Growing up in the 1980s, France for me was symbolised by its adventerous football and rugby teams and strange avant-garde films with gratuitous nudity. I had this impression that the French would be a nation of free-thinking hedonists, so I was very surprised to discover just how conservative they are in general. I often hear jokes about the traditions and reserve of the English, but there is a freedom of expression in England that is difficult to find in France. The structures here are very rigid and based around an educational elite, meaning that it is very difficult to bring in new ideas and approaches. In the UK, most of the best creations have stemmed from the need to rebel against a more puritanical society, whereas the French, although more hot-blooded, consider that little needs to be changed in their world. Rock and roll could never have been born in France!
I guess I would have to begin with my own misconception. Growing up in the 1980s, France for me was symbolised by its adventerous football and rugby teams and strange avant-garde films with gratuitous nudity. I had this impression that the French would be a nation of free-thinking hedonists, so I was very surprised to discover just how conservative they are in general. I often hear jokes about the traditions and reserve of the English, but there is a freedom of expression in England that is difficult to find in France. The structures here are very rigid and based around an educational elite, meaning that it is very difficult to bring in new ideas and approaches. In the UK, most of the best creations have stemmed from the need to rebel against a more puritanical society, whereas the French, although more hot-blooded, consider that little needs to be changed in their world. Rock and roll could never have been born in France!
Favorite under the radar spot to explore in Paris?
I think the suburbs of Paris are its great underexploited resource, and there are some fascinating places to explore around the city. There is almost an invisible line around Paris, but as soon as you step over it you’ll notice that your surroundings change completely. Paris is a very polished and uniform city of smart residential units and more modern office blocks – which though attractive can be quite dull – but in the suburbs you’ll still find industry and a much wider mix of social classes. Walking up the Canal de l’Ourq beyond La Villette out towards Pantin and Bobigny, for example, offers a much more varied and chaotic perspective, where you’ll be sure to stumble across the unexpected – and also a more authentic vision of France.
Place in France you most recommend for first-time visitors?
My ‘belle-famille’ all live in the Lot/Dordorgne area of France, and it’s a region I’ve always loved. It has wonderful scenery and great food, is warm without being too hot, hilly without being too mountainous and green without being too wet. I would recommend it to anyone, although probably not in winter – even we tend to avoid it at that time of the year!
Most amusing or frustrating interaction with the French?
The most frustrating – and I suppose amusing (said through gritted teeth) – interactions have all centred on the difficulty the French have with anyone speaking their language with a pronounced accent. To be fair, on my first visit to France I only spoke a few words of the language, but I realised it was always going to be tricky when it took me about five minutes in a shop to get the lady working there to understand that I wanted a Coca Cola.
After having learned the language, I proudly reserved a table by telephone for a romantic Valentine’s day meal – only to discover, when we arrived, that they’d laid it out for 10 people! Today my French is almost perfect, but I have never been able to shake my accent, and it is still sometimes frustrating to have people reply back to me in English. At first I thought it was incredibly rude, but over time I’ve come to see that it is in fact a form of politeness. The average English person – myself included if I had stayed in my country of birth – would be incapable of responding to a French visitor in their language, so I put this all much more into perspective now.
****
Thanks, Adam! If you’d like to contribute stories to his writing project or are a photographer and would like to partner with him, get in touch with Adam here!
Follow Adam:
Twitter: @InvisibleParis
Blog: Invisible Paris
Downloadable Paris Walking Tours {new!}