French pastry remains a fierce object of fascination but these days, more for the ways in which it breaks with convention than for its storied past. The most iconic is unequivocally the éclair, firmly anchored in the national consciousness and a consummate favorite among children and adults alike.
Despite its status as the most preferred pastry among French gourmands, the éclair has rarely inspired the imaginations of pastry chefs who have long perceived its simple form too limiting. But that’s beginning to change with the arrival of two shops entirely devoted to the cream-puff pastry, prepared to usher it into the canons of contemporary French pâtisserie.
L’Eclair de Génie plays up the éclair as an epoch-defining work of art in a concept-store environment (an approach chef-owner Christophe Adam is familiar with from his tenure at Fauchon) while L’Atelier de l’Eclair introduces a savory form of the classic treat in addition to their many sweet iterations.
I wrote about both for En Route Magazine (Air Canada) but what I didn’t mention was my personal favorite. By dint of crafting each éclair by hand, irregularities in the shells are noticeable at L’Atelier de l’Eclair and they’re fiercely proud of their artisanal approach,…
