The Paris dining scene has flourished in the last few years largely thanks to foreign-born or foreign-trained French talent, eager to offer market-driven food at accessible prices. Nearly all of the hottest chefs presiding over their own kitchens today were schooled in some of the city’s most prestigious gastronomic and bistronomic restaurants, if only for a short time. One of the year’s most successful is Australian chef James Henry, formerly of Au Passage and Spring.
At Bones, located in the 11th arrondissement, Henry plays up raw materials in design and approaches pedigreed ingredients in a noble, unpretentious way. You’ll find small plates of raw, seared, pickled, smoked or grilled fish, meat and vegetables that you’d be hard pressed to find on the plate anywhere else. Henry accepts that not everything he prepares (offal, for one) will appeal to all diners but if it doesn’t, the house-made bread, butter and charcuterie certainly will.
In the video above*, Henry offers a glimpse into the space where his special stripe of cooking comes to life. It’s a beautiful reflection of everything that’s exciting and fresh about the state of Paris dining today. No need for moderation, watch guiltlessly.
