View from Côte Brasserie
With every visit, I like London more and more. The people are friendly, the tube is relatively free of putrid odors and garbage, and restaurants understand the importance of service. After my wonderful long weekend back in April visiting one of my Parisian friends who had enough of Paris and jumped ship, I raved about the food. My father couldn’t believe his ears. All he remembered was the stereotypical repertoire of tasteless pub food – loads and loads of potatoes – that largely defined their cuisine back in the 70’s. Food in London… good? How could that be? From what long-time Londoners have said, the transition to fine dining is a rather recent development.
This trip was a quick one to celebrate my friend’s 30th birthday but not lacking in satisfying dining experiences. I thought I’d assemble a short list of my current favorites so that next time you find yourself in London, anticipating starvation or meals of junk food, you’ll return home (wherever that may be) pleasantly surprised.
THE BURGER JOINT {BYRON BURGER}
Cheeseburger with gruyère
As I’ve talked about before, I’m a bit of a nut when it comes to eating healthy. Reading In Defense of Food almost made me consider vegetarianism but I, instead, decided to integrate some of Pollan’s lessons into my lifestyle (by trying to follow everything HERE). I’m a hopeless carnivore who despises fast food chains. Though a chain, Byron (“proper hamburgers”) in London proves that food that may be eaten fast doesn’t have to be bad for the environment or come from mistreated animals.
Byron’s beef comes free-roaming, grass-fed cattle sourced from small, local farms. There’s nothing fake or industrial about this burger nor its artisan baked bun – a cushion to hold together the Gruyère, tomato, lettuce and onions. It’s no wonder Byron’s was named The Observer’s 2009 Best Cheap Eats winner – the burger cost £7.25 (about 9€) and the side of home-made skin on fries were only £3 extra – totaling less than what you’re often required to pay for an average burger in Paris served on a bun direct from Harry’s – a supermarket brand of hamburger rolls. Verdict: A must for all burger fans.
THE FRENCH PLACE {CÔTE BRASSERIE}
It might seem silly to try a French restaurant when in London but I was curious to compare their modern interpretation of traditional French bistro food with what you actually get in Paris. That and my friend whom we were visiting dates a manager of one of their restaurants so we knew part of our meal would be free (who would turn that down?). We went to Côte Brasserie at London Bridge at the back of the Hays Galleria with a spacious terrace overlooking the Thames. Although gray with ominous clouds, the view was spectacular. London Bridge to the right, Tower Bridge to the left and the Gherkin straight ahead.
From foie gras and tuna niçoise to rib-eye steaks with Roquefort butter sauce, the menu proved traditional with a few wildcards, like the English breakfast option and the salmon fishcakes with a baby spinach salad and a dill and wholegrain mustard sauce that I joyfully ordered and enjoyed. I have yet to see crab or salmon cakes on any menu in Paris and I’m bewildered and disappointed by this.
The portions were appropriate and the desserts plentiful, all brimming with flavor and refinement. Outstanding view, quality French food, affordable price tag. Again, London beats Paris for quality:price.
THE PIZZA PLACE {PIZZA EAST}
The gem of East London, Pizza East is a modern twist on the beloved pizzeria. Located in the Tea Building in what resembles a sort of renovated warehouse with exposed beams and pipes, the restaurant boasts a wildly affordable menu and a bevy of smiling, speedy servers (some of whom are American). Don’t be fooled by its ordinary name, they serve much more than pizza – salads, a selection of meats and fish and sizable plates of antipasti. In the evenings, booking a table is a must. My only complaint was the noise (warehouse acoustics), but with an ebullient atmosphere and wait staff to add to a tasty meal, my ears could take a beating.
THE CAFE BY DAY, BAR BY NIGHT {THE BOOK CLUB}
Oscillating light fixtures, wooden tables, sinking couches and not a book in sight – well, at least not that you can see at night when The Book Club transforms from its day job as a café – imagine hipsters with their macs and ipads sipping on latte’s – to an ultra-trendy bar and club in the evening. This was the venue for my friend’s 30th bash which started off pretty tame and eventually saw the space fill to capacity with creatively-dressed Brits out for a good time. Only 10 minutes walking from Pizza East, The Book Club also seems to pay its respects to its formerly industrial space and keeps the design simple.It’s all about a laid back upstairs and a chic downstairs club.
They don’t have a full dinner menu but their nibbles were delicious – a fajitas and vegetarian platter that helped absorb the endless streams of Veuve Cliquot champagne. Certainly the best bar food I’ve ever had.
These are only a few of the places I’ve tried but I’ve been both impressed and envious of the types of restaurants available to Londoners, especially those that are affordable.
What are your London favorites?
