Dépaysant – a French word that encapsulates far better the feeling of being far from home than any one English word. But more than being far from home, the term signifies an otherworldly feeling, of a place, perhaps exotic, that exposes us to a culture or routine notably different from our own. It’s the first word I used when we arrived in Istanbul on Friday morning and the last word I used upon leaving the bustling metropolis yesterday.

We immediately observed a striking dichotomy between old and modern, secular and spiritual Istanbul; a division reinforced by the fact that it straddles two continents which are separated only by the Bosphorus strait. It is a city defined by dualities – one part European and a smattering of Asian with a dose of Middle Eastern heritage thrown in to define the sprawling city and its people. Imperial mosques and minarets punctuate the skyline while boats, ferries and fisherman line the waterfront in activity. Unlike the immaculate beauty of Paris, Istanbul’s allure is far more raw. Trash coated many streets, even in the old city, and dilapidated buildings weren’t shielded from tourist view as they might be in Paris. It was a refreshing change from cities treated like museums.

And yet with its rough exterior comes a (mostly) modern, clean transportation system that everyone, young and old, uses daily. We stuck to the trusty tram, ferry, metro (the funicular one time) and bus system which, aside from our inability to communicate without hand gestures, worked beautifully in addition to our feet (which are so very tired!).

Settling back into Paris, we discussed how we could properly articulate our feelings from a mere three days in Istanbul. We agreed there were 3 different ambiances that set the scene for our trip:

Bosphorus Oasis

As you might remember, back in October I won a 2-night stay at any Kiwi Collection luxury hotel in the city of my choice as part of a Battle of the Bloggers competition. We narrowed down our top destinations and decided to go with Istanbul. Let me preface what follows by saying that we are not accustomed to such luxury lodging and for once, we were looking forward to experiencing a different side of travel. That, and a little pampering and relaxation.

The A’Jia is a boutique hotel on the Asian side of Istanbul, set in a traditional Ottoman mansion directly on the shores of the Bosphorus- a veritable oasis. We were welcomed into our waterfront suite with chocolate dipped strawberries and other mini desserts- not exactly traditional Turkish fare. Robes and slippers were waiting on the bed which was adorned with flowers. We had gone from one world straight into another.

The breakfast of our choice was included in our stay and we even got to witness a Turkish wedding party as a young couple celebrated into the night on the deck of the hotel. It was the soothing sound of the Bosphorus that rocked us to sleep once the noise from the festivities dissipated and greeted us again in the morning. We received amazing service, ate well, slept peacefully and had a giant bath tub to soak our feet after a day of intense walking.

But reaching such luxury was quite an adventure. The hotel was a 15 minute ferry ride across the strait (only 1.75 lira) and an additional 30-35 minutes by a rickety, eco-unfriendly bus – a route we tackled willingly. The distance between the historic sites and the hotel was considerable, likely another 25-30 minutes after we reached European soil, but it was a journey that gave us the opportunity to see more than the Sultanahmet layer of the city.

Which leads me to the second univers of our adventure:

Istanbul’s Old Town

Istanbul’s old town, much of which is part of UNESCO’s World Heritage List, is home to some of the world’s most astounding mosques and museums. We heard the call to prayer as locals flocked to the Blue Mosque to bow down to Mecca, a ritual practiced 5 times a day. We saw the vendors on the street selling everything from corn on the cob and Simit -Turkish sesame rings that resemble large bagels – to freshly squeezed juices and handwoven rugs.

The Grand Bazaar and spice market were as much a cornucopia of bright colors and fragrances as they were claustrophobic tourist trap where negotiating with merchants was the only way out with all your lira in hand. In many ways, it reminded me of the Paris open-air markets where vendors holler prices and offer tastings to persuade uncertain shoppers. We walked away with a box of apple tea and satisfied noses.

But it really is a part of town far more breathtaking at night when the mosques are brightly lit and music bellows from packed restaurants. It could have been the gray skies that persisted throughout our trip that left us with this feeling, but we were more impressed with the Old Town once the sun had set and people emptied the streets. It almost had the same kind of calm we appreciated on the other side of the Bosphorus.

Modern Istanbul

Just north of the Golden Horn and across the Galata Bridge lies the modern section of Istanbul. Taksim Square is essentially the heart of town and was visibly the place to go for young, Turkish bobos and shoppers. Mainstream boutiques and trendy restaurants lined the Istiklal Caddesi pedestrian street which was just as packed close to midnight as it was in the middle of the day.

We realized very quickly that this crossroads between an older, religious population and an animated, youthful crowd was where the city came alive. One of our best meals came from 360, a restaurant on the top floor of a building on the pedestrian street with an outstanding view of the entire city. The food was modern and the crowd trendy and done-up which was perhaps the biggest shock of all. It’s as if the Galata Bridge separates two worlds, two Istanbul’s, two identities.

So with these three, very different settings we explored the many sides of Istanbul. We managed to do a considerable amount of walking and discovering in such a short time and have the blisters to prove it. We weren’t meant to be awed by pristine, picture-perfect beauty but rather by history and a different way of life. The Turks appear to have a far greater sense of community and connectedness than the French will ever have and it shined through their hospitality, group prayer sessions, and tête-à-têtes over cups of tea.

We went into this trip having few expectations, only the glowing reviews from friends and other bloggers. I don’t think it will be the last time we choose to travel into the unknown, armed only with the desire to learn and full bellies ready to indulge.

A’Jia Hotel
Ahmet Rasim Pasa Yalisi Cubukli Cad. No 27
34812 Kanlica, Istanbul, Turkey
+90 216 413 9300

360 Restaurant
Istiklal Caddesi | Misir Apt. No. 163 K. 8 (top floor)
Beyoglu 34340 | Istanbul Turkey
+90 533 691 0360

For more views of the city, check out the rest of my photos on flickr.