As much as I love the thrill of exploring a new place on my own – ambling the streets and stumbling upon historic treasures is usually how trips go – I’ve also come to enjoy the added context and local insight that a tour guide can provide. With only a passing knowledge of San Sebastian prior to our trip and barraged by gushing praise from friends and acquaintances who know the city well, I knew we needed to dig beneath the surface. I investigated walking tours and quickly found myself entrenched in the diverse offering at the award-winning San Sebastian Food.
While we were intrigued by their Iberian ham-carving master class, the Pintxo-focused tour and the Spanish wine course, we wanted a foundation. We opted for a 2 hour stroll with a fantastic guide who regaled us with stories of Basque history (did you know that the city has been devastated by fire at least 6 times in its history?), architectural and landscape inspiration (France!) and tales of local culinary prowess (the city boasts 16 Michelin stars, the most per square meter in the world). We learned that 40% of Basque people speak the language and nearly all of them eat regional cuisine. Agustin, our guide, emphasized that San Sebastian really wasn’t a place to seek out ethnic food. And he’s right – when you have some of the world’s best food at your fingertips – and at very generous prices – there’s no reason to look elsewhere.
Toward the end of the tour, our stomachs were growling wildly – all that talk about the city’s edible specialties (and how best to consume them – more on that below) had assailed our senses and spurred our appetites. Fortunately, the tour concluded with tastings at a few of San Sebastian Food’s favorite Pintxo bars. Finally, we could avail ourselves of some of that legendary Basque tapas.
Tips/Things to Remember:
– Ann Mah’s recommendation was spot-on: start with one pintxo, see if you like it and if the quality is up to par, then order more or move along to the next bar. Pintxos are also great around happy hour before a more substantial meal.
– Ask the barman for his personal favorites: each Pintxo bar has a specialty but you might not realize it from glancing at the menu. The staff in these places are super friendly and happy to advise.
– Payment operates under the honor system so once you’re ready to leave remind the barman what you ordered and then continue on.
– The entire experience is very lively but informal – most people stand and chat, then dispose of their napkins on the floor. While this is customary and supposedly a sign of quality, our tour guide said he never did it. “It just doesn’t feel… right. Would you do that at home? Probably not so why here?” He’s probably one of the few locals who refrains.
– Order wine with your pintxo but don’t be surprised if the glass is underfilled – its purpose is to wash down the food.
Our indulging continued over the next several days. With a purposeful tread, we walked up and down the narrow streets of the old town, peering into Pintxo bar windows and feeling transfixed by the heaping piles of food. We returned to a couple of the places we visited with the guide and tested a few others. You really can’t go wrong with our top 4:
A Fuego Negro
Calle 31 de Agosto, 31
Certainly an institution in the city’s old quarter, this modern Pintxo bar attracts a smartly dressed crowd with an insatiable appetite. Don’t miss: the Wagyu burgerand garlic rabbit.
Casa Gandarias
Calle 31 de Agosto, 23
Diners spill out onto the street at this universal favorite where pretty much everything is simple and delicious. We went twice. Don’t miss: the sirloin on toast with green pepper and sea salt. (see photo above)
Borda Berri
Calle Fermin Calbeton, 12
Following Meg Zimbeck‘s recommendation, we came specifically for two dishes: braised veal cheeks and mushroom orzo risotto. Both were deliriously good and dirt cheap. If we didn’t have other bars to try, we could have spent the evening here.
Bar Zeruko
Calle Pescaderia 10
Expect creative riffs on the classic pintxo at this ultra-modern spot. Everything from the colors to the flavor combinations are unique and draw in crowds from the street. Not everyone is a fan of their style, including the old guard who remain staunchly faithful to tradition, but we had a fantastic selection of small plates. Don’t miss: La Hoguera de Bacalao, a charcoal smoked cod served on individual grills. You’re meant to finish cooking the cod using wooden tweezers, place it atop the herb-cream chip on the side, and down it with one bite. Then, you wash it down with a lettuce chaser served in a test tube. It was delicious!
(See more examples here.)
NON-PINTXO FAVORITES:
Kokotxa: one of San Sebastian’s eminently affordable one-Michelin table in the heart of the old town. The prix fixe option is a fantastic value but you can also order à la carte. Service is impeccable and the wine selection so good you’ll leave with a list full of bottles to pick up before you skip out of town.
(reservations required)
Oiartzun: this bakery-cum-gelateria should be your morning boost and post-dinner treat. The bakery sits on a corner, across the street from the back end of the city hall, and has a spread of pastries that easily rivals any corner shop in Paris. For dessert, pop over to their gelateria next door which sports a more modern design (see HERE) and a much younger staff. To properly test their selection, we went for scoops three nights in a row. Don’t miss: amaretto and any of the sorbets.
Galparsoro: before we discovered Oiartzun and the local bakery down the road from the apartment we rented, we were at a loss for breakfast. Ingrid Williams, journalist and Twitter pal, sent me to this no-frills bakery with the city’s best-rated bread with a special mission: get a loaf of brioche and dig in. We inhaled that as well as a few other pastries I confidently recommend. Go early or prepare to wait in a line that snakes around the block.
LINKS:
Ann Mah’s Pintxo experience in San Sebastian and Bilbao
Blank Palate: American expat in San Sebastian talks food and life from Basque country with keen local insights
Nikki Bayley’s Pintxo Pub Crawl guide
A helpful map of some of the best Pintxo bars
More of my San Sebastian photos HERE.
