I may already be gearing up for another expat Thanksgiving and mapping out my itinerary for a trip stateside in December but October is still on my mind. Though there were moments of frenetic activity, the opportunities for work and play made it a truly unforgettable month. Here are five highlights:
Meeting Frank Gehry at the Fondation Louis Vuitton
After working on a story on Bordeaux for Australian Gourmet Traveller Magazine, my editor offered me the opportunity to cover something far more timely.
The highly anticipated Fondation Louis Vuitton in the Bois de Boulogne is a veritable work of art inside and out thanks largely to the creative acumen of its architect, Frank Gehry. I’m not an acolyte of contemporary art but I do follow developments in French culture that propel the country forward, this cultural hub included. Gourmet Traveller sent me to the pre-opening where I had the chance to ask one of my many questions to Frank Gehry directly during the interview session. In fact, I was seated only a few feet from him, acutely aware of how much this moment meant to both many of the writers in the room and those who share Gehry’s love for France.
To read my piece, check out the December issue of the magazine!
Lunch at 52 Faubourg Saint-Denis
Charles Compagnon is one of my favorite restaurateurs in Paris right now. As evidenced by the success of Le Richer and L’Office, his neo-bistrot hot spots within a few meters of one another in the 10th arrondissement, he has a firm grasp on what casual dining should be about: accessible prices, seasonal dishes free of pretension but high on technique and an environment that is welcoming. Now that experience extends a few blocks away at 52 Faubourg Saint-Denis where I lunched earlier in the month. The menu was in the same spirit as Le Richer – fresh, flavorful, creative – but the dining room more spacious and breathable.
For photos of Le Richer to give you a feel for what you might expect over at 52, check out David Lebovitz’s latest post HERE.
Tea time with Christophe Michalak’s Religieuse at the Plaza Athénée
I may not be able to offer myself many (or any, let’s be realistic) nights in Palace Hotels, but I can splurge a bit on cake and a moment of luxury. In the re-opened Galerie tea room and lounge, I tucked into pastry chef Christophe Michalak’s signature (and sinful) treat: a salted caramel Religieuse. Ordinarily I find myself gravitating more toward fruit and chocolate-based desserts but this fell within the spectrum of ‘perfectly sweet’ without slipping into cloying territory.
Pumpkin cream puffs for Halloween at Gâteaux Thoumieux
Paris doesn’t DO Halloween. Locals have a passing knowledge of the festivities but ask them when it falls and you’ll hear crickets. While you won’t find supermarket shelves brimming with Halloween-specific candy or decorations, some attempts have been made to integrate subtle nods to its auxiliary autumn symbols into local culture.One strong initiative I was most pleased with was the limited edition pumpkin pastries at Gâteaux Thoumieux, Michelin-starred chef Jean-François Piege’s 7th arrondissement pâtisserie. He and his head chef Ludovic Chaussard didn’t just fashion their cream puffs to look like pumpkins (that would be far too elemental), they crafted a sophisticated treat that also tasted like Halloween – a touch of buttery cinnamon spice from the Speculoos cream filling and a pure pumpkin center. With a decidedly Parisian twist, this was the perfect way to satisfy my Halloween nostalgia.(If you visit the shop, try the tarte au citron).
A weekend reconnecting with an old friend
My friend Sally and I used to have sleepovers, go on vacation together and gossip about our classmates for the better part of our childhoods and then college came and threw off our groove. We drifted and fell completely out of contact until reconnecting last year when she came to Paris for a weekend with a friend. As the only one she knew in Paris, it was a chance to see if the friendship flames could be rekindled. We had such a ball that she came back again this year over Halloween weekend to walk (and eat) the city on what turned out to be the balmiest October weekend on record. What I realized after she left was that Paris has often served as the backdrop to reunions of many kinds. A geographical blessing.
For shots of Paris in gorgeous autumnal colors, check out my Flickr photos HERE. How was your month?
