The habitually languid month of August ran its course as it usually does. Parisians returned from vacation in one, thronging swoop, rush hour metro squabbles commenced where they left off and the specter of fall (and the temperatures that go with it) loomed large before it was officially back to school. Then, September rolled in hard and strong, effacing the hard-earned zen of summer but thoughtfully bringing with it balmy, blissfully sunny weather. The key to a painless rentrée, I find, is making the most of every moment, rain or shine. Here’s how I fared the last two months:
6th Wedding Anniversary Tea at Hotel Le Meurice
The threat of rain showers botched our plans of spending our sixth wedding anniversary in the gardens of Vaux le Vicomte for their candlelight evenings (la visite aux chandelles), when 2,000 candles illuminate the estate and precede an impressive fireworks display. Skipping town last minute in August wasn’t an option so we opted for a leisurely afternoon over high tea in Le Meurice, the rococo palace hotel overlooking the Tuileries Gardens. Tea sandwiches, bite-sized desserts and champagne did the trick and we were pleasantly surprised by the gigantic raspberry millefeuille the wait staff brought out with a candle at the end to properly celebrate our anniversary. It was truly the wedding milestone that kept on giving – we picked away at that millefeuille for days! I can highly recommend the high tea at Le Meurice for a special occasion.
Le Perchoir Marais
The drinks aren’t cheap but the view is certainly sweet at Le Perchoir. After an astoundingly successful first year, the rooftop bar-restaurant in the 11th arrondissement took the concept on the road this summer with a pop-up bar atop the BHV Marais department store. Cushions, high wood tables and flea-market stools are snatched up fast so early arrival is key to getting a drink and a seat before the crowds descend. The bar closes October 12th, only a few days left to take in the view!
Entrance at 37 rue de la Verrière, 75004
20:15-2:00am Mon, Tues, Thurs + Sat
21:15-2:00am Weds
12:00pm-2:00am Sunday
A sweet sneak peek at Noël 2014 with Relais Desserts
The holidays came early to Paris with an indulgent presentation of this year’s collection of Bûches de Noël (Christmas yule log cakes) from a brigade of the country’s top pastry chefs. I won’t be staying in France for the holidays this year so the yule logs won’t be making an appearance at my dinner table. I will, however, be making a stop this fall at the Fontainebleau pastry shop of Frédéric Cassel, President of the Relais Dessert organization, whose work I discovered at this presentation. See a few delectable highlights HERE.
My husband may be convinced that I have become enamored with Bordeaux because it’s like a miniature version of Paris but with proper summers and a storied history of winemaking. But that would be a reductive interpretation of my feelings for the former Sleeping Beauty city. After an incredible few days in Mayor Juppé’s town last summer, we took the train down early in September to cover the areas we hadn’t explored over a long weekend. The experience merits its own post but suffice it to say we both foresee a future there. (A few visual reasons why in my Bordeaux Flickr album).
Coming soon: you can read some of the top places to sleep, eat, drink and hangout in Bordeaux in my article in the December issue of Gourmet Traveller!
London Getaway: work and play
With six trips in a year, London is truly beginning to feel like a second home. Fortunately, it’s not only a fun city to visit but home to some of my dearest friends. Work was the primary reason for this stop over but I went a few days early to spend time with Will and Toby in their adorable cottage on the outskirts of the city. As true friends do, they catered to my belly, introducing me to Berners Tavern, The Grocer, Fleet River Bakery, and Hally’s. For a few visual highlights, check out Will’s colorful recap on Bright Bazaar.
How has la rentrée been treating you?
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