As least once a year, I am asked by friends and acquaintances for recommendations in Marseille. Up until very recently, I’d always say: skip the center, head straight for Les Calanques, the breathtaking limestone cliffs that jet into fjord-like inlets in the sea that have been recently classified a National Park.  Go for nature, not culture, I insisted.

But with the million-dollar overhaul for its role as a 2013 European Capital of Culture, the entire city, from the formerly gritty, ramshackle center to the old hillside district, has transformed into the south’s cultural epicenter. The dining scene is evolving rapidly as well, attracting food-conscious travelers more than ever before. It’s finally a place to enjoy both the calm of the sea and the bustle and tiny passageways of its urban core. I walked away from this weekend getaway feeling more impressed and entertained by Marseille than ever before and I can confidently encourage everyone to carve out time to discover its rich history and celebrate its promising future. It may come with a fresh new look but France’s oldest city has retained all of its southern pride.

For a full guide – where to stay, eat, and explore – check out the mini guide I put together for New York Magazine’s 5-Point Weekend Escape Plan series! And for more photos from our weekend, click here.