I didn’t grow up shopping at farmer’s markets or trawling for treasures at nearby antique or flea markets but quickly discovered their virtues when I moved to Paris. Attractions in their own right, the city’s markets give visitors a firsthand look at daily French life and bring them closer to locals and artisans. Even better, they
‘re everywhere, spanning across town and past city limits. I haven’t visited all of them yet – have to save something for when friends visit- but I know precisely where to turn when I want a comprehensive list and some historical context to go with it.
Author Marjorie Williams is a wellspring of knowledge when it comes to the market presence in Paris, having co-authored the second edition of the recently-published Markets of Paris. The smartly designed pocket guide is thorough, complete with practical information (hours of operation, closest metro station, etc) and packed to the gills with fantastic photos to guide the reader. I can’t recommend this book enough to those traveling to Paris and particularly those with a profound appreciation for market culture.
I’m honored to welcome Marjorie to this series!
Describe what you love about France in three words.
Markets, Markets, Markets
Hard to choose only one but which is your favorite food market in Paris and why?
The large open-air food market at Marché Bastilleon Thursday and Sunday mornings which runs along boulevard Richard Lenoir (and often referred to as “Marché Richard Lenoir“) in the 11th arrondissement. Stretching over several blocks, this market is one of the most ample in Paris. Walking at a leisurely pace, it feels pleasantly endless. There’s a superb selection of cheeses, meats, fruits and vegetables, ready-to-eat dishes … on and on. In addition to the food (and, yes, wine) choices, there’s also a bounty of colorful scarves, kitchen gadgets, leather items, etc. It’s also such a social place–especially on Sundays when it draws lots of people looking as much for entertainment as for provisions. I never tire of gazing up at the July Column and being reminded that the easygoing spirit in evidence now, especially on market days, stands in sharp contrast to the horror, oppression, and revolution that occurred on the same ground years ago.
Easiest to make and most satisfying French recipe you cook?
Pintade aux choux, which is guinea fowl with cabbage. It was a buttery comfort meal when I lived in Paris. The first time I asked my butcher for “pintade bardée de lard” and he actually knew what I was talking about (because I didn’t), I felt victorious. The recipe was given to me by a friend. It was written in French, and I had to rush to my computer to Google Translate each time I got to the next step. Luckily nothing burned.
Your go-to restaurant when friends or family are in town?
L’As du Falafel. It never fails to please.
Most amusing interaction with the French?
My husband and I had recently arrived and our French was rusty. We went to a café for a snack but it took a long while to figure out the options and what we were in the mood to eat. The waiter came to take our order but he could tell by our flustered looks that we weren’t ready. He muttered “à plus tard.” My husband’s eyes lit up and he repeated back what he thought he’d heard, “Apple tart? Yes, that’s what I’ll have!”
{GIVEAWAY}
To win a copy of her book Markets of Paris (2nd Edition), leave a comment below with you favorite market (it can be outside of France!).
One winner will be selected at random and announced at the bottom of this post on Friday, October 19th. Open to readers with a U.S. or Canadian address only. Good luck!
UPDATE: Congrats to Michelle S. on winning a copy of Marjorie’s book! Thanks for playing everyone, I enjoyed reading about your favorite markets!
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{many thanks to The Little Bookroom publishing house for making this giveaway possible!}
{author photo: Marjorie Williams. Market photos: Lindsey Tramuta/Lost In Cheeseland}
