A few years ago, when I began reading Haven in Paris‘s well-crafted blog HiP Paris, I was instantly drawn to two of its regular contributors: Amy Thomasand Tory Hoen, wildly different but both equally discerning voices on food, art and culture in Paris. Neither peddle the kinds of battered clichés about the city that you’re likely to find elsewhere but they still retain a keen sense of what readers want most – a mix of whimsy and fact, personal anecdotes and delicious food tales.
Many of HiP Paris readers share my girl crush on Tory but few know her story. After working in New York for two years and feeling stifled, Tory had her ‘it’s now or never’ moment and bought a one-way ticket to Paris, found a questionable sublet and settled into an artist’s life. She returned to the states over a year later, taking with her a swath of stories, finds and memories. Back in New York, she is a freelance writer/editor, contributing to NY Mag among other outlets but getting back to Paris is never far from mind. It seems fitting that the first time I met Tory was at Amy’s Paris book signing for Paris My Sweet back in the spring – one of her annual trips back to the capital. If she’s so besotted by Paris, you ask, then why isn’t she here? More on that below…
Describe what you love about France in three words.
Makes me laugh.
Like most Paris-lovers, I have a real respect for French history and culture, but in terms of my day-to-day experience of Paris, I spent most of my time making fun of things. The French can be really self-serious, and my best coping mechanism was just to laugh at myself and at them, pretty much non-stop.
NY vs Paris, the perennial battle. What do you miss about Paris and what ultimately keeps you in New York?
I think of Paris as a great place to live, and of New York as a great place to work. Since I’m relatively young and still building my career, I’ve settled on New York for now. It’s a power city, and for every opportunity that existed for me in Paris, there are ten opportunities in New York. There’s a sense of momentum and possibility here that I can’t seem to walk away from.
Of course, the flipside is that I miss the Parisian lifestyle: the slower pace, long meals, walking for hours, making out on bridges, reading by the Fontaine de Médicis, stumbling upon places that speak to my inner freak (the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature), soaking up that peachy late-afternoon light. Oh, and I really miss the resident cat at the Rotisserie de Beaujolais.
There’s a fluidity to Paris living that stands in stark contrast to the over-scheduled ways of New Yorkers. And of course, I just miss being in a foreign place where my powers of observation are always operating on overdrive. I felt so awake in Paris, especially when I first arrived.
Aesthetically speaking, there’s really no contest. Paris is devastatingly beautiful. And lately I’ve been based in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, which is (let’s admit it) downright ugly. I get such a kick out of seeing French tourists here, ooh-ing and aah-ing about the neighborhood’s industrial “charm.” Really, guys?
But in terms of permanently choosing a city, I’m not sure I ever will. It’s definitely a “grass is greener” situation. Whenever I set down roots in one place, I start to yearn for the other. But for the moment, I think my formula is: make your mark in New York, then retire to Paris.
Best spot for a nightcap in Paris?
There are a ton of too-cool-for-school cocktail dens in Paris these days, but I will take an unpretentious hole in the wall any day. For early evening, Le Baron Rouge is the perfect wine bar. Late-night, I like the slightly chaotic scene at Chez Jeanette. If you must have a mixologist-made cocktail, Curio Parlor is my pick. It’s been around long enough that the scenesters have moved on to newer venues, but it still maintains that sexy, den-of-iniquity vibe.
Something you never leave France without bringing home with you?
There used to be so many things, but now most of them are available in New York! But I always try to stock up on Mariage Frères “French Blue” tea and Bioderma Crealine H2o Ultra-mild Non-rinse Face and Eyes Cleanser. I recently ran out of the tea, and there was crying involved.
Most frustrating or amusing interaction with the French?
I’m permanently annoyed by French people who reply to me in English even though I’ve initiated the conversation in French. Yes, I have an accent, but give me a break!
I love that, when discussing New York, French people will inevitably talk about the city’s “énergie.” They get really excited about yellow taxis, hamburgers, the Brooklyn Bridge and the show Friends, which is kind of endearing. Parisians can be so intimidating, so it’s nice to see they have a bit of wide-eyed naïveté when it comes to New York.
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View all of Tory’s stories for HiP Paris and dig into the archives of her blog A Moveable Beast where she chronicled her move to Paris. Come back soon, Tory!
