The Paris I Know – by Linda Donahue


In anticipation of her forthcoming trip to Paris, I asked Linda Donahue of Parisien Salon to talk about how she prepares for her visit and what, if anything, she wanted to do differently this time around. Perhaps you will relate?

As I prepare for yet another trip to Paris—my other “hometown”—I find myself once again fielding questions from friends and acquaintances. “What will you do there?” “What are you planning to see?” “Got anything good planned?” Given how many times a year I fly to Paris, I often wonder why anyone thinks I’ll suddenly change my stock answer: I have no idea.

I’ve lost count how many times I’ve flown to Paris; how many days I’ve spent strolling along its winding streets. I remember, back in the first few visits, I would spend weeks planning my time in the city. I’d pour through guidebooks (back before the Internet became so accessible) and plot my time around themes or neighborhoods. If, for instance, I was going to the Musée Picasso, then I would have to start at the Place des Vosges, follow a specific route, eat in a pre-determined restaurant and continue to navigate in a way that allowed me to visit pre-selected shops.

And each time, I would, inevitably, abandon my itinerary and allow myself to just get lost. I was reminded of this just the other day by a friend who was spending a long weekend in Paris—her first time visiting the city. She’s in the country for a few months to continue her training as a pastry chef, and she planned her few short days in the city around her landmarks—Lenôtre, Ladurée, Pierre Hermé. She had no idea where she was as she explored the city, taking photographs of things that interested her, and apologized to me for doing so—as if I’d be offended by her aimless wanderings. I shared with her that I had come to know Paris in much the same way, learning about the places I saw only after I’d seen them.

In the years since I started visiting Paris, I’ve become nearly as familiar with the city as those who live there. Maybe more so, given that there are some Parisians who are loathe to venture out of their own arrondissements. I know the 14 Metro lines (16 if you count two bis lines) and the neighborhoods they cut through. I know where and when to shop, have favorite markets and restaurants, and know when a taxi driver is taking the scenic route.

That said, and despite my familiarity with Paris, I still find great joy in getting lost. No matter how much time I spend here, Paris is a city that continues to reveal its secrets to me. Slowly. This is my deliberate pleasure, something I find necessary in my ongoing love affair with the French capital. Maybe it just keeps things fresh for me. While I find comfort in the routine I’ve established in Paris, I cling to the unexpected, the surprises, to keep the boredom at bay.

Of course, it’s hard to fathom ever getting bored in Paris. It is, after all, a city that takes pride in constant contradiction. The modern glass pyramid juxtaposed against the ancient palace. Complete indifference but with a requisite politeness. Decadent desserts that few will admit to eating.

So as I prepare for yet another trip to Paris, I anticipate all the discoveries that I can’t possibly anticipate. There’s no planning—only packing—to be done. And that’s just the way I like it.

Linda Donahue is, at heart, a displaced Parisian. The editor-in-chief of Parisien Salon and founder of shop.ParisienSalon.com and PSPrive.com, she spends her time traveling between Paris and Miami.
Photos by Linda Donahue are for sale on shop.ParisienSalon.com.