As you know, I have a real problem with the rampant mediocrity of Parisian restaurants. Dining out in Paris is an expensive habit and even more so when the quality is average at best. Recently, Mr. C and I tested two places that had significant potential but ultimately failed to impress. Nove Sette and MOOD.

Starting with Nove Sette – located in a part of the 17th arrondissement I’ve never been (near métro Rome), I had found the restaurant after conducting a quick search for Italian restaurants in that neighborhood. Mr. Cheeseland and I were to meet friends who live a quick drive to that part of town from their suburb and they asked me, the veteran foodie, to name the place. It was through the site The Fork (or, La Fourchette) that I booked the table in order to get 40% off the bill. I’ve used the site before and received complementary glasses of wine or champagne or even a free dessert with a meal, but this kind of discount was the best I had found. 

The boys ordered a plate of grilled veggies, fresh mozzarella and Italian charcuterie piled high and since I was holding out for dessert, I looked on as they devoured the appetizer within minutes. The verdict thus far was positive. 

Each of our main courses were average and disappointing. I ordered the steamed cod-fish with crunchy vegetables and a spinach puree, all of which was bland and uninspired. 

I almost ordered the veggie raviolis but it’s a good thing I didn’t as my friend found a bit of egg shell in the sauce. Sure, it could happen, but it shouldn’t. Especially not for the price of the dish which was exaggerated for the amount of food you actually receive. When my friend ordered the dish, the waiter nodded his head and motioned with his hands that it was copious. He was lanky and emaciated so naturally his perception was a bit off. 

The only one content with their meal was Fabien, Mr. Cheeseland’s rock climbing buddy, who ordered the casareccia de foie gras – pasta in a creamy foie gras sauce, with diced foie gras pieces topped with a foie gras chip. A bit pretentious, if you ask me. I politely declined when he asked me to try.Though I’m not a fan of foie gras to begin with, I can’t help but visualize the ardent disappointment and disapproving stare of my sister, a veral vegetarian veterinarian, at even the thought of touching the stuff. Still, aside from the splashes of vinegar on the plate for presentation, the dish seemed mediocre. 

At this point I felt like a foodie failure. I had chosen a disappointing restaurant all the while being talked up as a good resource for good eats in the city, even among French people. Would the desserts restore my credibility? 

  Yes, it would appear so. Unfortunately, not enough to make the restaurant worth recommending. 

Now on to the second disappointment. First, I should preface that Parisians seem to love nothing more than trendy New York style restaurant-lounges with French-Asian fusion cuisine. If you can’t come up with an original theme, just copy the Americans, it would seem. Mood Bar Restaurant is inspired by the film In the Mood for Love and sits just off the Champs-Elysées. Mr. Cheeseland scurried to make a reservation the day of our anniversary and did a search on our trusty fork.com and found Mood… well, a discounted version of it anyway. 

When I first walked in the door, I was impressed by the ambiance. I may chide the French for their reinterpretations of sophisticated lounges, but it was a nice departure from the bustling bistros and tiny-tabled restaurants that line most streets of Paris. The table was private, the music low, and the service friendly. It was off to a good start. 

The menu offers everything from an Asian style chicken salad with ginger and soy to burgers and filet mignon. Given the emphasis on originality and chic-dining, we expected our tomato, mozzarella and pesto crostini appetizer to be slightly more than a whole tomato accompanied by a giant wedge of mozzarella and some pesto drizzled on the plate. The idea was there, the execution was not. 

 We both had a feeling that despite the under-impressive appetizer, the meat would be of quality so we each opted for the tender filet mignon. The dishes arrived and mine was rare when I asked for it medium and waited almost 15 minutes for it to be returned to me cooked more thoroughly. At that point, Mr. C had already finished his meal and was piling away the bread basket. The meat was excellent and very tender but I was irritated by their error so the overall impression was tainted, made worse only by the dessert. We chose what sounded like an original ice cream dish – 3 shooters of our choice on a crumble. Naturally, we were expecting some form of crumble-like dessert below the ice cream but instead it was literally, 3 scoops of ice cream in individual compartments with some graham cracker-type crumbs underneath. While the ice cream was good, it certainly wasn’t homemade nor was it was we had imagined.

These two restaurants seem to be guilty of putting too much attention into the decor and losing sight of the importance of a strong menu. Any good copywriter would see that the superfluous descriptions masked a lack of originality and thought, leaving a pretentious aftertaste. Sure, you can find gastronomical invention at a place like Spring, but it doesn’t come cheap.  If you’re looking for a quality meal at a reasonable price, you’re in for a challenge.

This mediocrity is plaguing Parisian restaurants – despite what some of my fellow foodies might argue – and we’ve become complacent. We hardly notice it anymore. So much potential wasted on creating a vibe that isn’t their own. I’ve written about a few gems I’ve unearthed before and am on the lookout for new additions. Impress me!