After an intentionally long respite with French food, my gastronimcal faith was restored Friday evening after one of the best meals I’ve had in Paris. Before I tell you about it and show you drool-worthy photos, let me preface by saying that the surfeit of mediocre meals I’ve had in French restaurants over time had left me cold. Here’s why:
Gastronomical capital of the world? Not in my book…
I used to be one of those people who romanticized France: French food, French men, French style, you name it. But I quickly learned there was no reason for it. My biggest complaint about French food is the stunning lack of originality and inventiveness. Not to mention the frequency of stale bread that accompanies an otherwise nice meal. I’ve had some of the most interesting meals in the US, land of excessive portions, where unconventional side dishes take my breath away. However, a lot could be done to jazz up the tired-old French menu with a touche of creativity and imagination but instead, the French remain anchored to convention. It may be surprising but the food is rarely as good as you’d expect. With little variation, any given restaurant will have the following menu:
Some kind of white fish served with soggy vegetables and rice.
Confit de canard (duck confite) with mashed potatoes and/or soggy green beans
Faux-filet with French fries and green salad drenched in dressing
Roasted chicken with fries/pommes sautées/mashed potatoes
Pork Filet mignon with…I’m sure you can guess.
This isn’t to say that all French restaurants are this way, but sadly too many are. But to my pleasant surprise, Friday night challenged these feelings.
L’Accolade – tasty heaven in a former butcher shop
L’Accolade may have simple decor but is a veritable temple of gastronomy.With a fresh daily menu, the head chef manages to add that needed touche to traditional and predictable dishes. Just next door, there is a Petite Accolade open for lunch. Accomodating service, outstanding food, excellent Friday night. Featured in the new Paris Fooding Guide 2010.
Before even ordering, we were each given a mushroom purée with coriander in little glasses.
Followed by an amazing pumpkin soup (which really came with bacon and some type of blue cheese but I asked for it plain and they were, for once, accomodating) – but even plain, it was bursting with flavor.
>My husband ordered the magret de canard which was served on a bed of mashed potatoes and mushrooms and a sauce he can’t describe. As someone who really enjoys duck, he said it was one of the best he’s ever had.
Codfish stuffed with seaweed on a bed of marinated vegetables. Seems simple but extremely flavorful.
But dessert was where L’Accolade pulled out all the stops. I chose the Café Gourmand (for those that don’t know, it’s an espresso with two or three mini desserts) with a mini molten chocolate cake and a vanilla, pear and caramel tartlette. The closeup isn’t great quality but it’s just to show the moltenness!
Amber ordered what I was too full to order, although I of course had a couple spoonfuls anyway: crumble aux poires with pear sorbet on the side. The crumble is usually my go-to dessert when it’s on the menu and it rarely fails to satisfy. This one exceeded our expectations. Oustanding.
And just when we were unbuttoning our pants and feeling like we couldn’t possibly ingest anymore….
Olympe’s tea came with mini moelleux au chocolat and you better believe I popped two of those babies. There’s always the gym to correct the previous nights errors. Or so I tell myself…
So voila, L’Accolade is a must-dine in the 17th. Next time my father comes to visit, I’m definitely taking him.
What are your favorite unconventional French restaurants in Paris?
L’Accolade
23 rue Guillaume Tell
75017 Paris
